The Ancient Korean Art of Keum-Boo

The Process of Keum-Boo

By first depleting the silver or other metallic surface with oxidation, then adding the piece to an acid or a salt bath, a purer form of silver (or other metal) remains. Pure gold easily fuses to the resulting silver with heat and pressure due to their similar atomic structure, creating a permanent diffusion bond.

To begin, Melissa Orsini shapes the piece of jewelry that she intends to create, such as a sage leaf earring or a necklace pendant. She then textures the piece to add interest and topography. Next, she fires the piece in the kiln, which transforms the metal clay into silver, bronze or copper depending on the type of metal clay used. 

Once a piece is fired, Melissa heats the piece until it is discolored, which indicates the metal alloy has oxidized, then delivers it to the pickle, or a bath of acid or salt. 

The pickling stage is crucial to removing the oxidized metal and creating a purer silver surface to which the gold leaf is applied. This process may be repeated several times to create the purest silver surface possible. 

When the piece of jewelry is deemed pure enough, Melissa heats the piece and applies the 24 karat gold leaf, which adheres to the surface and fuses, forming a permanent bond.